Delivery
Deliveries to your site incur additional costs which depend on the number
of pavers ordered and the distance of your property from our factory.
When access permits, we will position the pallets on your property where
you would like them. However, in certain circumstances delivery to the
kerbside may be unavoidable. If the pallets are to be left on the nature
strip, a permit may be required. If in doubt, contact your local council
for advice.
After Delivery.
Once pavers have been delivered, we recommend that you take them off the
pallets as soon as is convenient. Please don't use a wheelbarrow to
move pavers around as this may inadvertently damage the pavers. Be careful
to protect the edges and top faces of pavers when moving and restacking
them. Handle your pavers with care, as they can develop hairline cracks,
chip, or break if dropped. If you restack the pavers, stack them neatly
on a stable and flat surface, with the 'top face' of a paver placed
on the 'top face' of another paver, and the 'underneath'
of one paver on the 'underneath' of another. Do not stack pavers
in a criss-cross pattern. This further minimizes the possibility of damage
to the pavers. Cover your pavers while they are being stored and waiting
to be laid, so as to protect them from the weather. Pavers that are stored
for extended periods may dry unevenly and this may cause shadowing and/or
other marks. Any marks or shadowing that occurs as a result of restacking
do not constitute a warranty claim.
When laying the pavers, take them randomly from different pallets (if
you have more than one pallet to choose from) in order to ensure a natural
blended look.
Please be mindful of the weight of the pavers. A paver measuring 500x500x40
weighs approximately 23 kgs. For your health and safety, we strongly recommend
that large pavers are handled by two people.
Laying pavers
With careful planning your project will run smoother.
We recommend the use of professional installers to lay your pavers. Please
view the installer's previous work as a guide to whether they are
suitable for your project.
If you would prefer to lay your own pavers please thoroughly research
the best options, methods and techniques appropriate to the individual
requirements of your site. The following guidelines may be used as a starting
point in your research.
The base
If the pavers are being laid as a driveway, the minimum Australian Standard
for the sub-base is at least 100mm thick 25 Mpa cured concrete with F72 mesh.
If the pavers are being laid as a pedestrian area, the recommended sub-base
is compacted crushed rock to a depth of 75mm. It would be preferable is
this was stabilized with cement.
Engineers' advice should always be sought when designing concrete
bases. Concrete foundations should include expansion and/or control joints.
Slope and Drainage
It is vitally important to have good drainage. A badly designed sub-base
can create water retention, which can cause weathering of the pavers.
Additionally, grouting solely with prepared sands may allow water to penetrate
and pool in both the sub-base and the joints which can cause efflorescence
and/or dark staining of the pavers.
Ensure that your outdoor flooring area is designed with rainwater run-off
as a priority. Good design means that water and moisture are not trapped
on the surface of the floor. This can be achieved with perfect levelness
and effective slope. If required, different drainage surfaces can be designed
into the floor field. If the drainage is not adequate dirt will build
up and saltpeter efflorescence and rings may develop.
Suggested gradients are >1% for small areas, and >2% for larger areas.
Mortar bed
Pavers should be laid on a bed of 4 parts sand, 1 part per 100 lime, 1
part cement mortar, 1 part water, and bonding agent. A typical mortar
bed is between 15-25 mm thick. Please ensure the sand is well graded and
washed. Use only enough fresh clean water to make the mix workable. Too
much water will decrease the strength of the mortar. The consistency of
the mortar mix is sufficient when the paver is placed on the screed it
does not settle. The surface of the mortar should be scored with a pattern
or marked lightly. This enhances the bonding of the mortar and the paver.
The mortar should be mixed thoroughly. It should not have any lumps, and
the material should be blended together completely. To achieve this result
a paddle mixer or a barrel cement mixer may be used.
Please ensure your cement is of a good quality. We recommend General Purpose
(GP) cement. Do NOT use blended cements. Follow the directions of the
manufacturer of your cement, and be aware that it is not recommended to
use cement products when the outside temperature is greater than 30°C.
Bonding slurry compound
Bonded slurry compound can be made with either cement and water, or cement
and bonding agent. Mix well and with only just enough water to create
a paste that is workable.
Placing pavers
Ensure that the concrete slab is also free of dust and debris. The slab
can be swept and hosed if required. Etching and bonding of the slab will
assist in eliminating dust and will increase adhesion.
Dampen the area of concrete where you are about to lay pavers.
Next place a 20mm thick layer of mortar mix on the concrete slab. Ensure
the mortar is evenly spread and that there are no voids.
Check that the base of the paver is clean. If necessary clean with a wire
brush to remove any dust or scale. Before placing any pavers you have
cut, rinse off any residue or sediment thoroughly. Failure to rinse off
residue or sediment may result in staining. Applying bonding agent to
the base of the paver will increase adhesion.
Carefully bed down the paver with a good quality rubber mallet. Use a White
mallet for light coloured pavers and a black one for darker colours. It
is vital to make sure that no air voids exist under the paver as these
may mean the paver is not fully supported and may cause the paver to not
adhere properly.
Tap the paver into place.
Fill any voids with a trowel. Remove and discard any excess mortar.
Using clean water and a clean sponge wipe the surface of the paver to remove
any excess material. Work cleanly.
Work in small controlled areas to ensure that the pavers are laid before
the mortar dries.
Cutting pavers
Ideally, pavers should be cut with a bench stone saw and a wet diamond
blade. Alternatively, a grinder with a diamond or masonry cutting blade
may also be used. Wash your paver immediately after cutting to avoid stains
that may be caused by the cutting paste.
Safety when cutting pavers
Respiratory, eye and ear protection are essential when cutting pavers.
Crystalline silica, a mineral found on earth, is a component of concrete.
Minute particles of this crystalline silica are present in concrete dust,
which is created when cutting pavers. Health issues may result from long
term exposure to these particles as a consequence of breathing them into
the lungs. Dust masks, safety goggles, and ear muffs should be worn when
cutting pavers.
Around swimming pools
It is recommended that pavers surrounding swimming pools are laid on concrete
slabs. This helps to prevent any differential movement that may occur
between the pool and the paving. Ensure that there is an expansion joint
between the pool coping and the paving, or the pool and the paving. A
sealer that is both anti-slip and penetrating should be used to seal all
areas around pools. This is especially important for areas around salt
water pools.
Expansion joints
In addition to the expansion joints around pools mentioned above, there
should be an expansion joint approximately every 4-5 metres. These should
match the existing joints of the underlying concrete slab and should be
placed as specified by engineers/contractors. The relevant Australian
standards should be adhered to at all times.
Expansion joints should not have any grout or mortar in them. Flexible
mastic can be used to fill the joint and keep dirt and debris out. For
further information regarding flexible mastic we recommend you consult
the manufacturer.
After laying pavers
Do not place any load on paved pedestrian areas for at least 48 hours.
Do not place any load on paved areas of where the pavers have been laid
with mortar on a concrete base for at least 3 weeks after the job has
been completed.
Grouting
Pavers and grout joints should be wet prior to grouting. Etching and sealing
prior to grouting is recommended for ease of clean up. Please refer to
the following two sections for guidelines.
Grout your pavers with a stiff mix. Stiff mix can be made with washed sand
and cement in a ratio of 3:1, or you can use a grouting compound which
is pre-bagged.
This mix can be trowelled into joints, or you could use a grout gun or
alternatively a wet slurry mix. Joints to be grouted in this way should
be between 7-10mm.
Ensure that grout has no voids and that it extends along the entire depth
of the paver.
After using a squeegee to fill the joints, trowel away any excess.
Using clean water and a clean sponge, clean the paver. Remove all excess
grout. It is essential that ALL EXCESS GROUT MUST BE CLEANED FROM PAVERS
IMMEDIATELY. This avoids sticking or staining. Please be advised that
grouting sands and/or grouts that are polymer based may leave transparent
stains if they are not thoroughly removed when cleaning excess grout from pavers.
The colour of the grout can be adjusted by choosing white or grey cement
or adding oxide. We recommend that you always complete a small test area
first, to ensure the cured colour of the grout is appropriate.
Cleaning
When you have laid and grouted your pavers and the grout has cured, we
recommend you wash your pavers. We recommend that you work in small areas
of no more than 3 or 4 meters. Wash thoroughly as you go.
Sealing
Sealing your pavers is optional. The advantage to sealing is that cleaning
pavers will be easier. Sealing will also provide some protection from
oil based stains. Ensure that all residue from the cleaning process has
been removed. When sealing pavers, we recommend the use of a high quality
penetrating sealer. If the pavers are around a pool, we recommend a penetrating
sealer that is anti-slip. For more information regarding sealers and the
process of sealing pavers please contact us.
Warranty
Pavers from Premier Pavers are covered by a twelve month warranty against
faulty workmanship or materials. Warranty claims must be made in writing.
Premier Pavers' liability for any valid warranty claim is to replace
the defective paver/s. Consequential losses claims and/or liability that
relate to the delivery, replacement or relaying of pavers will not be
accepted by Premier Pavers. It is the purchaser's responsibility to
inspect all of the pavers after delivery. Discrepancies must be reported
within 2 working days. Small chipping and minor marks are not considered
defects as they are not structural. Pavers with variations in thickness
of +/- 3mm, deflection of +/- 2mm and/or excessive chipping may be subject
to a warranty claim.
Please note that as concrete pavers are made with naturally occurring materials,
there may be occasional variation in surface finish and/or colour.
Disclaimer
This guideline is a collation of good installation procedures, however
it does not constitute a warranty, nor is it the only method possible
for the installation, finish and maintenance of pavers.
We recommend that this guideline is used alongside the relevant Australian
Standards. This guideline is provided in good faith and represents our
experience and knowledge.
This guideline does not take the place of the services and advice of professional
consultants and/or contractors.